Got Any Good Tyre Theories?
When you "Run a tyre
in" Do you know what you are doing? Do you think that by roughing
up the edges with a file it makes a difference? Do you think Burn Outs
do it for you?
Running wets - do you go
for higher or lower pressures?
When it's turned wet do
you raise or lower the gearing?
Are slicks run at a
higher or lower pressure than the usual "intermediates"?
When the temperature
drops but it's still dry, do you raise or lower the pressures?

I sent a fax to Dunlop
Tyres with some these popular questions, the answers make interesting
reading
From: Mr. M. Jackson, Dunlop
Motorcycle Tyres, Racing Division.
We only produce D207 GP,
race slicks and wets here in Birmingham so all my comments regard these,
none of the following comments will refer to tyres never used on
the race track)
1. "Do we have
to scrub tyres in to remove Mould Release Agents?"
D207GP's of ALL
applications use the same moulds. Release agents are only rarely used
where we encounter problems with a particular process or compound.
D207GP's and slicks are unlikely to have any mould release agents on
them. Road and race tyres nearly always use different manufacturing
processes due to their different applications.
2. "What is the
biggest difference Between Road and Race tyres?"
It's mainly construction
(composition), because of this a racing slick is not capable of road
tyre mileages - it is generally built for lighter machines without
pillions, also a slicks high-speed stability would be much impaired
compared to a road tyre. There is a cross-over between the harder end of
the slick compound range and D207 GP road tyres. One reason being that
it is more efficient for our factory to produce 'common' compounds
applicable to standard slicks and D207 GP than to produce a different
compound for each and every application. Having said this all slicks and
D207's have their own development cycle and no product is never
compromised.
3. "How Long
does Scrubbing in take?"
'Scrubbing in' depends
upon track/road conditions, temperature, rider experience, etc. In my
experience two laps is enough for a slick under nearly all circumstances
and probably three laps for a D207GP. On the road in the winter a D207GP
will need up to 50 miles to scrub-in.
4. "How do wets
compare on Pressure?"
Wet tyres are typically
run at 0.2-0.3 bar higher than D207 GP's and slicks.
5. "What is the
Correct Pressure?"
Correct tyre pressure is
just as (more?) important as correct compound selection, a fact which
escapes many experienced riders and novices alike. Starting pressure
largely relies upon final hot pressures It is always best to find the
optimal hot pressure for a machine - say 2.6-2.7 bar for a 600c
Supersport 180/55ZR17 D2O7GP rear (on the race track only) and then
regulate starting 'cold' pressures to achieve this as ambient and track
pressures change through the day. As you point out if ambient
temperatures decreased then you would reduce starting pressure slightly
to achieve the same hot pressure (assuming the tyre casing was reaching
a similar temperature in both conditions), as the increase in casing
temperature, hence pressure, must be more in colder conditions.
Temperature rise in wets is not significant, it is unlikely these would
need to be corrected.
6. "Tyres are
only good for 3 runs".
This depends on the
severity of the 'runs' and the type of machine. 125cc tyres are
generally capable of more 'runs' than a 5OOcc machine. Once any slick or
D2O7GP has been raced hard its future performance will invariably be
lower although for a novice rider the lower severity of use in a race
and the riders lower ability/tyre requirements may mean he can quite
happily continue with a tyre much longer than an experienced rider. Top
national level riders will only race once on a set of tyres - D2O7GP's
or slicks, therefore these tyres are only any good for one 'run'.
Heating/using/cooling will affect the chemical/tyre properties to
varying degrees but I would say the 3 'run' philosophy is untrue. As I
point out a novice may get '6 runs' but an expert racer only 1 'run'.
7. "Wider tyres
= More Grip."
Assuming the tyre in
question is designed for the rim in question then this is generally
true. You should bear in mind however that handling performance
generally reduces as the tyre gets wider, so for a twisty track like
Cadwell short-circuit more grip does not necessarily equate to faster
lap times.
Hope this is of some help
to you. Mick Jackson - Chief Designer.

Other questions still out
standing.
Dyno's damage tyres. True
or False?
Reverse fitting the front
207 gives me more grip.
Is this true or just plain dangerous to ignore the direction indicator?
What actually happens to
the tyre to be called Scrubbed?
Can I set my hot running
pressures while the tyre warmers are on?
Is there going to be
another supply problem with Dunlop 207's this year?
Are Paddock bargain tyres
a false economy?
Storing the bike over
winter, do I need to wrap up the tyres?
Tyre warmers have no
place on Wets as they cool down straight away.
True or False?
I have heard that I can
combine cross ply and radial tyres, but is it Crossply front with Radial
rear or the other way around?
Next page, front end
setup